Por Gabriela Pallares.
Para disfrutar Colonia hace falta bajar el ritmo, desconectarse del mundo, disponerse a caminar escuchando resonar los pasos en los callejones de piedra, descubrir joyas escondidas o disfrutar el atardecer en alguna de sus terracitas. Un lujo que muchas veces no nos permitimos y sin embargo está acá nomas.
Fundada por Manuel de Lobo, venido desde Portugal en 1680, supo ser la primera ciudad del más tarde llamado Uruguay, luego conquistada por españoles e independizada en 1828, razón por la cual se alternan construcciones españolas, portuguesas o coloniales que le valieron en 1995 la declaración de Patrimonio de la Humanidad de la Unesco.
Su casco histórico aún se preserva en buen estado, y si bien la ciudad está preparada para recibir turismo, no ha sido alterada y puede disfrutarse la energía de antaño entre adoquines de siglos pasados y gaviotas surcando el cielo. Intramuros hay edificios emblemáticos como la Casa del Virrey y muchos otros, pero también hoteles boutique, cafés, restaurantes o mercados de productos autóctonos como quesos o vinos.
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El Centro de «Bienvenida, Interpretación y Turismo» es una reciente y moderna incorporación junto a la nueva terminal portuaria, obra de los arquitectos Ferrando, Freiberg, Zino, Probst y Giordano. Con una tienda, espacio audiovisual, un sector de información turística y un café es buen punto de partida para un recorrido excepcional.
Lentas Maravillas. Su dueña, Magui, es una argentina que eligió Colonia como su lugar en el mundo. A su casa se accede por una galería de arte, y se pasa a un living con biblioteca y libros que pueden leerse. Un ventanal con vista al parque privado junto al río, muchos objetos y la posibilidad de degustar la especialidad de la casa: Carrot cake con crema de chocolate blanco o el sandwich de hummus y vegetales. En el jardín, podés sentarte bajo los árboles en sillas BKF.
Posadita de la Plaza. Una fotogalería inaugurada en el 2009 que tuvo tanto éxito de visitantes que el paso lógico para Eduardo Alvares, de origen brasileño y dueño del lugar era incorporar la opción de estadía con muy pocas habitaciones pero muchísima personalidad. Un lugar lleno de objetos, historias, música, buena comida y huéspedes de todas partes del mundo
Charco Hotel. Uno de los lugares más modernos y sin embargo con un equilibrio muy bien logrado, cuyo punto fuerte es la terraza frente al río y el bistrot donde sirven sándwiches, jugos y cerveza artesanal. Su dueño, Pablo Datria, tiene una galería de arte en Buenos Aires, y él mismo remodeló Charco.
El Drugstore. Una esquina colorida y folclórica con mesas en la calle como muchos de los locales. Un estímulo visual.
Buen Suspiro. Un almacén de vinos y picadas que está sobre la Calle de los Suspiros. Se entra por una pequeña puerta que se abre sobre la muralla, adentro parece un recinto medieval, con techos bajos y un patio íntimo. Además de tener una buena selección de vinos uruguayos, en el almacén, Wilde, su dueña vende productos de la zona: hormas de queso Colonia madurado, salames de Juan Lacaze, aceite de oliva o mermeladas.
1717 Fine Arts. Una galería de fotos en una casa que data justamente de ese año, con galería y jardín incluido.
La casa de Jorge Páez Vilaró. Restaurant y Museo Galería con las obras del artista nacional.
Churanda. Super cool el local que mezcla muebles de estilos con terraza frente al río para ver atardeceres olvidándose del mundo.
Queriéndote. Otro lugar divino frente al río.
Parrilla Santa Rita. La especialidad: Paella de frutos del mar
Real de San Carlos. A comienzos del siglo XX, Nicolás Mihanovich con audaz visión de futuro concibió Colonia como un balneario al estilo Biarritz, construyó un Complejo Turístico y una Plaza de Toros con una estación de trenes proyectada.
Un siglo más tarde, tal cual lo había planeado el empresario naviero, se recrea la estación, y además albergando muchos recuerdos de su complejo, como la vajilla con sus iniciales, en lo que compone el museo Mihanovich.
Restaurante Museo del Ferrocarril. El alma mater de esta iniciativa es Analía Berdini, una abogada argentina radicada en Colonia. Siempre había soñado con un lugar así, y cuando tuvo la oportunidad, compró el terreno y luego los vagones en un remate de AFE hace seis años. Adquirió dos coches de pasajeros de 1913 y 1938, y tres vagones de 1889, todos de madera. Los refaccionó consultando archivos fotográficos y buscando piezas de remates.
Bodega Cordano. Fundada por el calabrés Antonio Cordano en el año 1855, con la finalidad de abastecer al vecindario de mercadería y ser lugar de encuentro con amigos. Allí, Ana Paula Cordano y su esposo, Diego Vecchio, continúan la misión. En el pintoresco Almacén de la Capilla ofrecen sus vinos, conservas y picadas con productos de la zona y le cuentan al visitante cómo aún producen esos vinos artesanalmente.
Narbona Wine Lodge. Una finca originaria de 1909, hoy convertida en hotel con certificación de Relais & Chateaux. Cuenta con cinco habitaciones, dos de ellas ubicadas en el casco histórico de la bodega. Todo está desprolijamente cuidado. El patio que da a las vides, con una gran mesa de madera y cómodos camastros, invita a relajarse. El restaurante, que lleva el mismo nombre que la bodega, está ubicado en lo que era el viejo almacén de ramos generales, con la panadería al lado y un camión antiguo que enmarca la escena. El concepto es que todo sea artesanal, que la gente pueda vivir un día de campo, muy familiar. Producen dulce de leche, quesos, conservas, dulces, además de vinos. Durante la vendimia, tienen una actividad que se llama «Enólogo por un día». La gente cosecha su propio vino, lo rotula, lo envasa y después se lo lleva.
Casa Chic. El hermano de su homónimo en Buenos Aires, heredero de los creadores de Kosiuko, con el estilo elegante porteño que tanto admiramos y disfrutamos aplicado en lugares como éstos.
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